Ten Days Traveling Mainland Honduras
After living in Roatan for eight months we had the itch to get on the move again. Deciding on our next destination was not difficult - we felt it would not do the statement “I lived in Honduras” justice if we did not break out of the Rotan bubble and experience the mainland. After doing some initial research we packed our bags said goodbye to our island home.
Traveling throughout Honduras was a wonderful experience. These days the media portrays this region as dangerous, chaotic, unstable. If you visit the US Department of State’s website it will tell you to “Reconsider travel to Honduras due to crime…Violent crime, such as homicide and armed robbery, is common.” There is no doubt that terrible things happen to people within this country. Gang violence and poverty among the local people is definitely a concern for the Honduran population. However, that was not the Honduras we saw. Our route took us through many places in Honduras, and while you need to be aware of your surroundings - just like anywhere in the world - as a whole the country of Honduras is a beautiful one, filled with dramatic mountain landscapes and extremely friendly people.
Most of the areas we travelled to would be considered tourist destinations within Honduras. We had a little over a week before heading to Guatemala; due to our time limitation we were unable to stay as long as we would have liked. However I hope that through through images and words I can share with you a more realistic picture of Honduras than the one you might hear about from the media.
Omega Tours - La Ceiba
Our first jaunt in Honduras is a place that we know well - Omega Tours just outside of La Ceiba. This is one of our favorite places on earth to relax and unwind. The hand built eco lodge sits in coastal mountains and is surrounded by jungle. As you relax next to their freshwater pool you’ll hear the sounds of hundreds of species of birds and bugs. The food at Omega is some of the best I have ever had and the staff is exceptional. At least three nights are needed here to truly appreciate the wonder of this place.
Where to Stay: Lodging at Omega is a given. They have several room options available; if you’re not on a budget, the Beauty View room is a must. It rises up over the rest of the lodge and gives you a great view of Pico Bonito, which stretches 2435 meters skyward. You’ll wake up to the cool jungle air and look out your screened in window to an unparalleled wake up vista.
Things to Do: The lodge has such a relaxed atmosphere that you may find it hard to leave the tranquility of your chair after finishing breakfast. However, if you’re feeling motivated Omega offers tons of activities like white water rafting, hiking, horseback riding, and more. One can’t miss (and free) activity is hiking in Pico Bonito Parque Nacional. Walk downhill to the park entrance from the lodge - the entrance will be on your left. The entrance fee is 180L, or about $8, per person. If you do the whole hike it will take you 3 - 4 hours and you will pass two waterfalls, the second being absolutely stunning.
Getting Here: To get to La Ceiba you can fly one one of the local airlines (CM Airlines or Aerolineas Sosa), take a bus (Hedman Alas) or shuttle (Roneey Shuttles) from San Pedro Sula, or take a ferry from either Roatan or Utila. When you make your reservation you can email or WhatsApp the Omega Tours crew and they will arrange for a trusted cab driver to pick you up in La Ceiba.
Lake Yojoa
From Omega tours we went onwards to Lake Yojoa. Lago de Yojoa is the largest lake in Honduras. Surrounded by stunning mountains and quaint villages, within a few days you’ll get the feeling that you have transitioned to a quieter, more simple life. To see all that the Lake Yojoa has to offer you’ll need to stay at least a week, but three or four nights here will still give you plenty of time to experience Yojoa.
Hikers and naturalists will flourish in the Lago de Yojoa area. There are tons of hiking options and exotic birds frequent the jungle in the area. For those looking to get a taste of Central American culture, the nearby town of Peña Blanca offers bustling roads and street vendors of all sorts. Transportation in the area is cheap and easy - tuk tuks run throughout the small villages, and chicken buses pass frequently from town to town.
Where to Stay: For those looking for a more western experience or for the budget traveler, D&D brewery is the place to stay. They offer rooms ranging from cheap dorms to comfortable cabins. They have a full service restaurant and a multitude of home brewed craft beers on tap. They don’t have a kitchen, but there are local shops in the area (IVO’s Coffee is a wonderful cafe) that you can visit to find more diverse and cheaper options.
Panacam Lodge also offers a quiet getaway near Cerro-Azul Parque Nacional, and several quality Air BNB’s operate in the area.
Things to Do: There is no lack of excitement in the Lake Yojoa area. At the top of your list should be Pulhapanzak Falls. This is a one of kind experience where you get to walk behind a huge, powerful waterfall and experience it in all its glory. At a glance it may sound underwhelming, but it’s EPIC. This type of thing would definitely not be legal in the United States.
Cerro-Azul Parque Nacional offers a 6km hike with stunning views of the Lake Yojoa basin, multiple waterfalls, and great opportunities for wildlife viewing. This can be done without a guide. There is much more hiking in the area, including a climb up Montaña de Santa Barbara, the second highest peak in Honduras at 2777 meters.
Getting a glimpse into local lifestyles and practicing your Spanish is incredibly rewarding in this area. Walking through Peña Blanca we were the only gringos, our senses assailed by sights and sounds and smells that were all novel to us. Spending time walking through small towns like these is enough to change the way you view the rest of the world.
Getting Here: Utilize one of the many shuttle companies operating in Honduras, hop on a Hedman Alas charter bus, or for those looking for a more adventurous (and extremely cheap) option, you can utilize the El Mochito chicken bus from San Pedro Sula that runs straight to La Guama.
Copan Ruins
We proceeded directly from Lake Yojoa to the town of Copan, home of the famous Mayan Ruins. With only two nights in Copan we didn’t have time to experience everything that this town had to offer, but we still greatly enjoyed our time here.
Besides the ruins Copan is an amazing cultural and sensory experience. The cobblestone roads wind around the town to colorful shops, bars, and markets. At times you feel as if you could have been transported back to another era; one where you can watch your clothes made on a loon and can buy all of your food from a stand down the street.
Where to Stay: There is no shortage of hotels and lodging in Copan. The Berakah Hostel runs a nice, clean operation with cheap dorm rooms and reasonably private rooms. They also provide modestly priced shuttles for travel to your next destination.
Things to Do: There are tons of activities for everyone in Copan! The main attraction is the Mayan Ruins, which are interesting and stunning. Nearby Macaw Mountain provides wildlife lovers with a chance to view and interact with exotic birds. Hot springs, horseback riding, and other options for entertainment are also available. Spend some time walking around the bustling city; the city center is a nice place to have a coffee and chat or people watch. Traditional vendors crowd the streets selling homemade wares.
Getting Here: Hedman Alas operates a bus to Copan from San Pedro Sula; you can also utilize one of the many private shuttle services in Honduras to get here. It’s a popular destination for travelers to stay for a few days going to/coming from Guatemala.