As I descended down the visibility in the water dropped to zero; I was surrounded by a thick cloud of gas that completely obscured my vision. The taste of rotten eggs filled my mouth and the smell filled my nose - sulfur, I thought to myself as I continued to descend into the bottom of the cenote.

We were diving in one of the most famous cenotes in Mexico and in the world, Cenote Angelita. This dive is unique because of the nature of the cenote; at about 30 meters the freshwater that fills the cenote makes way to a layer of hydrogen sulfate. The thick cloud of gas completely obscures visibility and separates the freshwater top from the saltwater bottom of the cenote. As you pass through the hydrogen sulfate you also go through the halocline, which is the border where the salt and freshwater meet. Haloclines give the illusion that the water is almost shimmering, kind of like heat when it comes off of a road on a scorching day.

Getting an opportunity to go on a novel dive like this was the chance of a lifetime - if you’re thinking about heading down to Mexico to do some cenote diving, you can’t pass Angelita up!

Getting There & Getting Setup

Cenote Angelita is a quick 15 - 20 minute drive from Tulum. If you go with a dive shop they will provide transport. You can get there yourself from Playa Del Carmen / Cancun as well, but you’ll need to rent a car and be prepared to pay the entry fee before diving.

If you plan on bringing a camera down you’ll also need to pay an additional fee. GoPros or small cameras cost about $20 US; larger camera rigs with strobes are about $30 or $40 US to bring down.

Before diving you’ll need to review the safety procedures and the dive plan with your divemaster and with the cenote managers.

You’ll also need to make sure you have your PADI Advanced Open Water Certification as the dive takes you to about 40 meters.

Choosing a Dive Shop in Tulum

Thanks to the prevalence of cenote diving and myriad of great diving along the coast of the Yucatan there are a plethora of dive shops to choose from in Tulum. Make sure you arrive at least a day early if you can to make your way to different dive shops. Talk to the employees, test their knowledge, and review the facilities and equipment. Regulations tend to be a bit more lax in this region, so do your due diligence before choosing a dive shop. This also gives you a chance to walk around the town, scope out things to do, and try a few restaurants / cantinas.

Equipment

Again, if you go with a dive shop, they should supply all of the equipment you need; however, it’s always good to double check and make sure that you have everything you need.

Of course you’ll need your basic diving gear - mask, fins, BCD, regulator, and tank. The water is cold, so you’ll also want a wetsuit. I went down with a 3 mm suit and was fine. If you’re a colder person, you might want to bump it up to a 5 mm suit. Don’t forget the booties!

It’s crucial to have a dive torch on this dive. Visibility is very poor and natural light cannot reach the depths of the cenote. Often times you will lose sight of your dive buddies and will only have their torch light to zero in on.

I would also recommend that you bring a dive computer along. Again, with poor visibility and the possibility of getting separated from your dive buddy, it’s critical to know your depth, ascension rate, and dive time.